What is Vitamin C Derivatives?
Stable forms of Vitamin C that are gentler and more pH-friendly than L-Ascorbic Acid. They convert to ascorbic acid in the skin. Less potent but better tolerated and no pH conflicts.
✅Key Benefits
- ✓Brightening effects (slower than L-AA)
- ✓Antioxidant protection
- ✓Gentle on sensitive skin
- ✓No pH conflicts with other actives
- ✓Longer shelf life
- ✓Less irritation
🎯Best For
Sensitive skinBeginnersCombining with niacinamide or retinoidsOily/acne-prone (SAP)
📋How to Use
Can be used AM or PM. No special pH requirements. Layer easily with other actives. Wait time not necessary. More stable - less urgency to replace.
⚗️RECOMMENDED CONCENTRATION: SAP: 2-5%, MAP: 10-15%, Ethyl Ascorbic: 3-15%, THD: 1-5%
⚠️Avoid Mixing With
- ✕Generally none - very compatible
💚Pairs Well With
- ✓Niacinamide
- ✓Retinoids
- ✓Peptides
- ✓AHAs/BHAs
- ✓Hyaluronic Acid
🚫Avoid If
- ⚠Rarely problematic - safe for most
🔬Scientific Evidence
SAP shown to reduce acne by 48% in 12 weeks. MAP penetrates well but converts slower. Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and THD have excellent stability profiles. Studies show 30-50% efficacy compared to L-AA.
⚡Important Warnings
- !Slower results than L-Ascorbic Acid
- !May need higher concentrations for visible effects
- !THD is oil-soluble (different texture)
💡Fun Facts
- ★SAP (Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate) also treats acne
- ★THD is the most stable and pH-flexible
- ★Great for layering with niacinamide (no flushing)
- ★MAP is water-soluble, THD is oil-soluble